FN Archimer Export Format
PT J
TI "Choppy wave" model for nonlinear gravity waves
BT 
AF NOUGUIER, Frederic
   GUERIN, Charles-Antoine
   CHAPRON, Bertrand
AS 1:1;2:2;3:3;
FF 1:PDG-ODE-LOPS-SIAM;2:;3:PDG-DOP-DCB-OPS-LOS;
C1 Univ Paul Cezanne, Fac St Jerome, Inst Fresnel, UMR 6133,CNRS, F-13397 Marseille 20, France.
   Univ Sud Toulon Var, LSEET, UMR 6017, CNRS, F-83957 La Garde, France.
   IFREMER, Lab Oceanog Spatiale, F-29280 Plouzane, France.
C2 UNIV AIX MARSEILLE, FRANCE
   UNIV TOULON, FRANCE
   IFREMER, FRANCE
SI BREST
SE PDG-ODE-LOPS-SIAM
   PDG-DOP-DCB-OPS-LOS
IN WOS Ifremer jusqu'en 2018
   copubli-france
   copubli-univ-france
IF 3.082
TC 45
UR https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/2009/publication-6832.pdf
LA English
DT Article
DE ;sea surface statistics;nonlinear gravity waves
AB We investigate the statistical properties of a three-dimensional simple and versatile model for weakly nonlinear gravity waves in infinite depth, referred to as the "choppy wave model" (CWM). This model is analytically tractable, numerically efficient, and robust to the inclusion of high frequencies. It is based on horizontal rather than vertical local displacement of a linear surface and is a priori not restricted to large wavelengths. Under the assumption of space and time stationarity, we establish the complete first- and second-order statistical properties of surface random elevations and slopes for long-crested as well as fully two-dimensional surfaces, and we provide some characteristics of the surface variation rate and frequency spectrum. We establish a relationship between the so-called "dressed spectrum," which is the enriched wave number spectrum of the nonlinear surface, and the "undressed" one, which is the spectrum of the underlying linear surface. The obtained results compare favorably with other classical analytical nonlinear theories. The slope statistics are further found to exhibit non-Gaussian peakedness characteristics. Compared to observations, the measured non-Gaussian omnidirectional slope statistics can only be explained by non-Gaussian effects and are consistently approached by the CWM.
PY 2009
PD SEP
SO Journal of Geophysical Research ( JGR ) - Oceans
SN 0148-0227
PU American Geophysical Union
VL 114
IS C09012
UT 000270057000001
BP 1
EP 16
DI 10.1029/2008JC004984
ID 6832
ER

EF