Observations of large infragravity wave runup at Banneg Island, France

Type Article
Date 2014-02
Language English
Author(s) Sheremet Alex1, Staples Tracy1, Ardhuin FabriceORCID2, Suanez Serge3, Fichaut Bernard3
Affiliation(s) 1 : Univ Florida, Dept Civil & Coastal Engn, Gainesville, FL 32611 USA.
2 : IFREMER, Lab Oceanog Spatiale, Plouzane, France.
3 : LEGT Geomer Brest, IUEM, Plouzane, France.
Source Geophysical Research Letters (0094-8276) (Amer Geophysical Union), 2014-02 , Vol. 41 , N. 3 , P. 976-982
DOI 10.1002/2013GL058880
WOS© Times Cited 20
Keyword(s) infragravity waves, trapped waves, storm waves
Abstract On Banneg Island, France, very high water-level events (6.5 m above the astronomical tide) have been observed on the western cliff, exposed to large swells from the North Atlantic. The analysis of hydrodynamic measurements collected during the storm of 10 February 2009 shows unusually high (over 2 m) infragravity wave runup events. By comparing runup observations to measurements in approximately 7 m of water and numerical simulations with a simplified nonlinear model, two distinct infragravity bands may be identified: an 80 s infragravity wave, produced by nonlinear shoaling of the storm swell; and a 300 s wave, trapped on the intertidal platform of the island and generating intermittent, low-frequency inundation. Our analysis shows that the 300 s waves are a key component of the extreme water levels recorded on the island.
Full Text
File Pages Size Access
Publisher's official version 7 707 KB Open access
Top of the page