|Author(s)||Sheremet Alex1, Staples Tracy1, Ardhuin Fabrice2, Suanez Serge3, Fichaut Bernard3|
|Affiliation(s)||1 : Univ Florida, Dept Civil & Coastal Engn, Gainesville, FL 32611 USA.
2 : IFREMER, Lab Oceanog Spatiale, Plouzane, France.
3 : LEGT Geomer Brest, IUEM, Plouzane, France.
|Source||Geophysical Research Letters (0094-8276) (Amer Geophysical Union), 2014-02 , Vol. 41 , N. 3 , P. 976-982|
|WOS© Times Cited||20|
|Keyword(s)||infragravity waves, trapped waves, storm waves|
|Abstract||On Banneg Island, France, very high water-level events (6.5 m above the astronomical tide) have been observed on the western cliff, exposed to large swells from the North Atlantic. The analysis of hydrodynamic measurements collected during the storm of 10 February 2009 shows unusually high (over 2 m) infragravity wave runup events. By comparing runup observations to measurements in approximately 7 m of water and numerical simulations with a simplified nonlinear model, two distinct infragravity bands may be identified: an 80 s infragravity wave, produced by nonlinear shoaling of the storm swell; and a 300 s wave, trapped on the intertidal platform of the island and generating intermittent, low-frequency inundation. Our analysis shows that the 300 s waves are a key component of the extreme water levels recorded on the island.|
Sheremet Alex, Staples Tracy, Ardhuin Fabrice, Suanez Serge, Fichaut Bernard (2014). Observations of large infragravity wave runup at Banneg Island, France. Geophysical Research Letters, 41(3), 976-982. Publisher's official version : https://doi.org/10.1002/2013GL058880 , Open Access version : https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00175/28642/