Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions
|Author(s)||Suanez Serge1, Cancouet Romain1, Floc'h France2, Blaise Emmanuel1, Ardhuin Fabrice3, Filipot Jean-Francois4, Cariolet Jean-Marie5, Delacourt Christophe2|
|Affiliation(s)||1 : Inst Univ Europeen Mer, LETG Brest Geomer UMR CNRS 6554, Rue Dumont dUrville, F-29280 Plouzane, France.
2 : Inst Univ Europeen Mer, LDO, UMR CNRS 6558, F-29280 Plouzane, France.
3 : Inst Univ Europeen Mer, LPO, UMR CNRS Ifremer IRD 6523, F-29280 Plouzane, France.
4 : France Energies Marines, F-29200 Brest, France.
5 : Univ Paris Est, Lab Urba EIVP, F-75019 Paris, France.
|Source||Journal Of Marine Science And Engineering (2077-1312) (Mdpi), 2015-09 , Vol. 3 , N. 3 , P. 674-698|
|WOS© Times Cited||35|
|Note||This article belongs to the Special Issue Coastal Hazards Related to Storm Surge|
|Keyword(s)||macrotidal beach, runup, storm, dune, erosion, extreme water level, NAO|
|Abstract||Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004–2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measurements, defined as the sum of (i) astronomic tide; (ii) storm surge; and (iii) vertical wave runup. Runup parameterization was conducted using swash limits, beach profiles, and hydrodynamic (Hm0, Tm0,–1, and high tide water level—HTWL) data sets obtained from high frequency field surveys. The aim was to quantify in-situ environmental conditions and dimensional swash parameters for the best calibration of Battjes  runup formula. In addition, an empirical equation based on observed tidal water level and offshore wave height was produced to estimate extreme water levels over the whole period of dune morphological change monitoring. A good correlation between this empirical equation (1.01Hmoξo) and field runup measurements (Rmax) was obtained (R2 85%). The goodness of fit given by the RMSE was about 0.29 m. A good relationship was noticed between dune erosion and high water levels when the water levels exceeded the dune foot elevation. In contrast, when extreme water levels were below the height of the toe of the dune sediment budget increased, inducing foredune recovery. These erosion and accretion phases may be related to the North Atlantic Oscillation Index. Keywords: macrotidal beach; runup; storm; dune;|