FN Archimer Export Format
PT J
TI Observations of turbulence within the surf and swash zone of a field-scale sandy laboratory beach
BT 
AF BRINKKEMPER, J. A.
   LANCKRIET, T.
   GRASSO, Florent
   PULEO, J. A.
   RUESSINK, B. G.
AS 1:1;2:2;3:3;4:2;5:1;
FF 1:;2:;3:PDG-ODE-DYNECO-DHYSED;4:;5:;
C1 Univ Utrecht, Fac Geosci, Dept Phys Geog, Inst Marine & Atmospher Res, POB 80-115, NL-3508 TC Utrecht, Netherlands.
   Univ Delaware, Dept Civil & Environm Engn, Ctr Appl Coastal Res, Newark, DE 19716 USA.
   IFREMER, Ctr Bretagne, Dyneco Physed, BP70, F-29280 Plouzane, France.
C2 UNIV UTRECHT, NETHERLANDS
   UNIV DELAWARE, USA
   IFREMER, FRANCE
SI BREST
SE PDG-ODE-DYNECO-DHYSED
IN WOS Ifremer jusqu'en 2018
   copubli-europe
   copubli-int-hors-europe
IF 3.221
TC 25
UR https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00277/38812/37538.pdf
LA English
DT Article
DE ;Turbulence;Plunging breakers;Swash;Laboratory experiment
AB Current coastal-evolution models generally lack the ability to accurately predict bed level change in shallow (<~2 m) water, which is, at least partly, due to the preclusion of the effect of surface-induced turbulence on sand suspension and transport. As a first step to remedy this situation, we investigated the vertical structure of turbulence in the surf and swash zone using measurements collected under random shoaling and plunging waves on a steep (initially 1:15) field-scale sandy laboratory beach. Seaward of the swash zone, turbulence was measured with a vertical array of three Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs), while in the swash zone two vertically spaced acoustic doppler velocimeter profilers (Vectrino profilers) were applied. The vertical turbulence structure evolves from bottom-dominated to approximately vertically uniform with an increase in the fraction of breaking waves to ~ 50%. In the swash zone, the turbulence is predominantly bottom-induced during the backwash and shows a homogeneous turbulence profile during uprush. We further find that the instantaneous turbulence kinetic energy is phase-coupled with the short-wave orbital motion under the plunging breakers, with higher levels shortly after the reversal from offshore to onshore motion (i.e. wavefront).
PY 2016
PD JUN
SO Coastal Engineering
SN 0378-3839
PU Elsevier Science Bv
VL 113
UT 000378454800006
BP 62
EP 72
DI 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2015.07.006
ID 38812
ER

EF