TY - JOUR T1 - Wave transformation over a barrier reef A1 - Sous,Damien A1 - Tissier,Marion A1 - Rey,Vincent A1 - Touboul,Julien A1 - Bouchette,Frédéric A1 - Devenon,Jean-Luc A1 - Chevalier,Cristele A1 - Aucan,Jerôme AD - Université de Pau & Pays Adour / E2S UPPA, Laboratoire des Sciences de l’Ingénieur Appliquées à la Mécanique et au Génie Electrique (SIAME) - MIRA, EA4581, 64600, Anglet, France AD - Université de Toulon, Aix Marseille Université, CNRS, IRD, Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO), La Garde, France AD - Environmental Fluid Mechanics Section, Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1, Delft, 2628CN, the Netherlands AD - Géosciences-Montpellier, Univ Montpellier, CNRS, Univ Antilles, Montpellier, France AD - Aix Marseille Université, Université de Toulon, CNRS, IRD, Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO), La Garde, France AD - LEGOS, UMR5566, IRD, Nouméa, France UR - https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010 DO - 10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010 KW - Wave transformation KW - Reef barrier KW - Infragravity waves KW - Very low frequency KW - Undular bores KW - Field experiments KW - Shallow water model N2 - This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of observations and numerical simulations shows that the reef barrier acts as an efficient, but depth-dependent, filter for incoming wave energy. The data analysis reveals the presence of very low frequency standing wave patterns due to reflection either at the reef barrier inner boundary or at the lagoon shore. Another striking feature is the development of undular bore trains over the reef flat. Y1 - 2019/08 PB - Elsevier BV JF - Continental Shelf Research SN - 0278-4343 VL - 184 SP - 66 EP - 80 ID - 61960 ER -