FN Archimer Export Format
PT J
TI Wave transformation over a barrier reef
BT 
AF Sous, Damien
   Tissier, Marion
   Rey, Vincent
   Touboul, Julien
   Bouchette, Frédéric
   Devenon, Jean-Luc
   Chevalier, Cristele
   Aucan, Jerôme
AS 1:1,2;2:3;3:2;4:2;5:4;6:5;7:5;8:6;
FF 1:;2:;3:;4:;5:;6:;7:;8:;
C1 Université de Pau & Pays Adour / E2S UPPA, Laboratoire des Sciences de l’Ingénieur Appliquées à la Mécanique et au Génie Electrique (SIAME) - MIRA, EA4581, 64600, Anglet, France
   Université de Toulon, Aix Marseille Université, CNRS, IRD, Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO), La Garde, France
   Environmental Fluid Mechanics Section, Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1, Delft, 2628CN, the Netherlands
   Géosciences-Montpellier, Univ Montpellier, CNRS, Univ Antilles, Montpellier, France
   Aix Marseille Université, Université de Toulon, CNRS, IRD, Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO), La Garde, France
   LEGOS, UMR5566, IRD, Nouméa, France
C2 UNIV PAU & PAYS ADOUR, FRANCE
   UNIV TOULON, FRANCE
   UNIV DELFT, THE NETHERLANDS
   UNIV MONTPELLIER, FRANCE
   UNIV AIX MARSEILLE, FRANCE
   IRD, FRANCE
SI TOULON
SE MIO
IF 2.424
TC 23
UR https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00508/61960/85776.pdf
LA English
DT Article
CR OLZO
BO Alis
DE ;Wave transformation;Reef barrier;Infragravity waves;Very low frequency;Undular bores;Field experiments;Shallow water model
AB This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of observations and numerical simulations shows that the reef barrier acts as an efficient, but depth-dependent, filter for incoming wave energy. The data analysis reveals the presence of very low frequency standing wave patterns due to reflection either at the reef barrier inner boundary or at the lagoon shore. Another striking feature is the development of undular bore trains over the reef flat. 
PY 2019
PD AUG
SO Continental Shelf Research
SN 0278-4343
PU Elsevier BV
VL 184
UT 000480377200007
BP 66
EP 80
DI 10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010
ID 61960
ER

EF