TY - JOUR T1 - In Vitro Hair Dermal Papilla Cells Induction by Fagraea berteroana, a Tree of the Marquesan Cosmetopoeia (French Polynesia) A1 - Hughes,Kristelle A1 - Ho,Raimana A1 - Chazaud,Claire A1 - Hermitte,Stéphanie A1 - Greff,Stéphane A1 - Butaud,Jean-François A1 - Filaire,Edith A1 - Ranouille,Edwige A1 - Berthon,Jean-Yves A1 - Raharivelomanana,Phila AD - UMR EIO 241, IFREMER, ILM, IRD, Université de la Polynésie Française, BP 6570, 98702 Faaa, Tahiti, French Polynesia AD - GReD Institute, Université Clermont Auvergne, CNRS, Inserm, Faculté de Médecine, CRBC, 63000 Clermont-Ferrand, France AD - Greentech SA, Biopôle Clermont-Limagne, 63360 Saint-Beauzire, France AD - Institut Méditerranéen de Biodiversité et d’Ecologie Marine et Continentale (IMBE), UMR 7263 CNRS, IRD, Aix Marseille Université, Avignon Université, Station Marine d’Endoume, rue de la Batterie des Lions, 13007 Marseille, France AD - Consultant in Forestry and Polynesian Botany, BP 52832, 98716 Pirae, Tahiti, French Polynesia AD - UMR 1019 INRA-UcA, UNH (Human Nutrition Unity), ECREIN Team, Université Clermont Auvergne, 63000 Clermont-Ferrand, France UR - https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00678/79021/ DO - 10.3390/cosmetics8010013 KW - Fagraea berteroana KW - hair growth KW - ethnocosmetology KW - Marquesas islands KW - Gentianaceae N2 - Fagraea berteroana is a tree used in traditional medicine in various islands of the South Pacific. Here, we studied its hair growth-inducing properties as suggested by one of its Marquesan ethno-uses in haircare. The ethyl acetate extract of the fruits of F. berteroana (FEAE) and four resulting fractions (FEAE-F0, FEAE-F1, FEAE-F2, and FEAE-F3) were tested on hair follicle dermal papilla cells to determine their cell proliferative activity. Furthermore, RT-qPCR analysis enabled gene modulation analysis, while immunostaining of the β-catenin protein was used to follow protein regulation. We found that the plant extracts induced a controlled, dose-dependent cell proliferation. FEAE-F0 simultaneously down-regulated Bone Morphogenetic Protein 2 (BMP2) mRNA expression and upregulated Cyclin-D1 (CCND1) gene expression, which suggests an involvement in the regulation of the Wnt and Transforming Growth Factor beta (TGFβ) pathways that control the hair cycle. FEAE-F0 exhibited a 1.34-fold increase of nuclear β-catenin protein. This is indicative of an active hair growth state. Thus, we conclude that FEAE-F0 could be an innovative candidate in hair care, which opens interesting leads to promote the Marquesan cosmetopoeia. Y1 - 2021/03 PB - MDPI AG JF - Cosmetics SN - 2079-9284 VL - 8 IS - 1 ID - 79021 ER -