Refined sea state analysis from an array of four identical directional buoys deployed off the Northern Cornish coast (UK)

This paper presents an analysis of sea states carried out from extended wave measurements realized near the Wave Hub wave energy test facility in Cornwall (UK). The space directional information is derived from the spectro-directional processing of time-domain data provided by an array of four independent SEAWATCH Mini II displacement buoys separated by an approximate average distance of 500 m. It is observed that, even though the size of the array is small compared to the local wave trains' length, the estimation of the directional spectra - using maximum entropy and likelihood methods - may sometimes exhibit certain space variability over the array. It was also observed that the tidal currents variations produced a significant influence upon the wave directional estimation and wave spectral parameters. Spectro-directional partitioning and wave system tracking were subsequently applied and this emphasized the influence of tide variations upon the individual swells and wind-seas as measured by the buoys. This paper, therefore, also illustrates the relevance of applying partitioning and tracking procedures for the identification of wave systems in oceanographic and wave energy studies. (C) 2012 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Keyword(s)

Directional wave spectrum, Directional buoys, Buoys array, Maximum entropy method, Maximum Likelihood Method, Sea state, Wave system, Spectro-directional partitioning, Wave stationarity/homogeneity, Wave/tide interactions

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Saulnier Jean Baptiste, Maisondieu Christophe, Ashton Ian, Smith George H. (2012). Refined sea state analysis from an array of four identical directional buoys deployed off the Northern Cornish coast (UK). Applied Ocean Research. 37. 1-21. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2012.02.001, https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00098/20922/

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