Infragravity waves: from driving mechanisms to impacts

Type Article
Date 2018-02
Language English
Author(s) Bertin Xavier1, De Bakker Anouk1, Van Dongeren Ap3, Coco Giovanni4, Andre Gael5, Ardhuin FabriceORCID6, Bonneton Philippe7, Bouchette Frederic8, Castelle Bruno7, Crawford Wayne C.9, Davidson Mark16, Deen Martha9, Dodet Guillaume2, Guerin Thomas1, Inch Kris16, Leckler Fabien5, McCall Robert3, Muller Heloise10, Olabarrieta Maitane11, Roelvink Dano12, Ruessink Gerben13, Sous Damien14, Stutzmann Eleonore9, Tissier Marion15
Affiliation(s) 1 : Univ La Rochelle, CNRS, UMR 7266, LIENSs,Inst Littoral & Environm, 2 Rue Olympe Gouges, F-17000 La Rochelle, France.
2 : Univ Bretagne Occidentale, CNRS, UMR 6554, LETG,GEOMER,IUEM, Technopole Brest Iroise, F-29280 Plouzane, France.
3 : Deltares, Dept ZKS, POB 177, NL-2600 MH Delft, Netherlands.
4 : Univ Auckland, Sch Environm, Auckland, New Zealand.
5 : SHOM, 13 Rue Chatellier, F-29200 Brest, France.
6 : Univ Brest, CNRS, Lab Oceanog Phys & Spatiale, IFREMER,IRD, F-29200 Plouzane, France.
7 : Univ Bordeaux, CNRS, UMR EPOC, Bordeaux, France.
8 : Univ Montpellier II, CNRS, UMR GEOSCI Montpellier, Montpellier, France.
9 : CNRS, UMR 7154, PRES Sorbonne Paris Cite, Inst Phys Globe Paris, 1 Rue Jussieu, F-75005 Paris, France.
10 : Bur Rech Geol & Minieres, Risks & Prevent Direct, 3 Ave Claude Guillemin, F-45060 Orleans, France.
11 : Univ Florida, ESSIE, Civil & Coastal Engn Dept, Gainesville, FL USA.
12 : IHE, Delft, Netherlands.
13 : Univ Utrecht, Fac Geosci, Dept Phys Geog, Utrecht, Netherlands.
14 : Aix Marseille Univ, Univ Toulon, CNRS, IRD,MIO, La Garde, France.
15 : Delft Univ Technol, Fac Civil Engn & Geosci, Environm Fluid Mech Sect, Stevinweg 1, NL-2628 CN Delft, Netherlands.
16 : Plymouth Univ, Sch Biol & Marine Sci, Plymouth PL4 8AA, Devon, England.
Source Earth-science Reviews (0012-8252) (Elsevier Science Bv), 2018-02 , Vol. 177 , P. 774-799
DOI 10.1016/j.earscirev.2018.01.002
WOS© Times Cited 46
Keyword(s) Infragravity waves, Bound wave, Dissipation, Reflection, Sediment transport, Barrier breaching, Seiche, Earth hum
Abstract

Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of wind-generated "short waves" (typically be- low 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves. Three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone. When reaching shallow water (O(1-10 m)), IG waves can transfer part of their energy back to higher frequencies, a process which is highly dependent on beach slope. On gently sloping beaches, IG waves can dissipate a substantial amount of energy through depth-limited breaking. When the bottom is very rough, such as in coral reef environments, a substantial amount of energy can be dissipated through bottom friction. IG wave energy that is not dissipated is reflected seaward, predominantly for the lowest IG frequencies and on steep bottom slopes. This reflection of the lowest IG frequencies can result in the development of standing (also known as stationary) waves. Reflected IG waves can be refractively trapped so that quasi-periodic along-shore patterns, also referred to as edge waves, can develop. IG waves have a large range of implications in the hydro-sedimentary dynamics of coastal zones. For example, they can modulate cur- rent velocities in rip channels and strongly influence cross-shore and longshore mixing. On sandy beaches, IG waves can strongly impact the water table and associated groundwater flows. On gently sloping beaches and especially under storm conditions, IG waves can dominate cross-shore sediment transport, generally promoting offshore transport inside the surfzone. Under storm conditions, IG waves can also induce overwash and eventually promote dune erosion and barrier breaching. In tidal inlets, IG waves can propagate into the back-barrier lagoon during the food phase and induce large modulations of currents and sediment transport. Their effect appears to be smaller during the ebb phase, due to blocking by countercurrents, particularly in shallow systems. On coral and rocky reefs, IG waves can dominate over short-waves and control the hydro-sedimentary dynamics over the reef flat and in the lagoon. In harbors and semi- enclosed basins, free IG waves can be amplified by resonance and induce large seiches (resonant oscillations). Lastly, free IG waves that are generated in the nearshore can cross oceans and they can also explain the development of the Earth's "hum" (background free oscillations of the solid earth).

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Bertin Xavier, De Bakker Anouk, Van Dongeren Ap, Coco Giovanni, Andre Gael, Ardhuin Fabrice, Bonneton Philippe, Bouchette Frederic, Castelle Bruno, Crawford Wayne C., Davidson Mark, Deen Martha, Dodet Guillaume, Guerin Thomas, Inch Kris, Leckler Fabien, McCall Robert, Muller Heloise, Olabarrieta Maitane, Roelvink Dano, Ruessink Gerben, Sous Damien, Stutzmann Eleonore, Tissier Marion (2018). Infragravity waves: from driving mechanisms to impacts. Earth-science Reviews, 177, 774-799. Publisher's official version : https://doi.org/10.1016/j.earscirev.2018.01.002 , Open Access version : https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00417/52876/