Wave transformation over a barrier reef

Type Article
Date 2019-08
Language English
Author(s) Sous Damien1, 2, Tissier Marion3, Rey Vincent2, Touboul Julien2, Bouchette Frédéric4, Devenon Jean-Luc5, Chevalier Cristele5, Aucan Jerôme6
Affiliation(s) 1 : Université de Pau & Pays Adour / E2S UPPA, Laboratoire des Sciences de l’Ingénieur Appliquées à la Mécanique et au Génie Electrique (SIAME) - MIRA, EA4581, 64600, Anglet, France
2 : Université de Toulon, Aix Marseille Université, CNRS, IRD, Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO), La Garde, France
3 : Environmental Fluid Mechanics Section, Faculty of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, Delft University of Technology, Stevinweg 1, Delft, 2628CN, the Netherlands
4 : Géosciences-Montpellier, Univ Montpellier, CNRS, Univ Antilles, Montpellier, France
5 : Aix Marseille Université, Université de Toulon, CNRS, IRD, Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO), La Garde, France
6 : LEGOS, UMR5566, IRD, Nouméa, France
Source Continental Shelf Research (0278-4343) (Elsevier BV), 2019-08 , Vol. 184 , P. 66-80
DOI 10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010
WOS© Times Cited 11
Keyword(s) Wave transformation, Reef barrier, Infragravity waves, Very low frequency, Undular bores, Field experiments, Shallow water model
Abstract

This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of observations and numerical simulations shows that the reef barrier acts as an efficient, but depth-dependent, filter for incoming wave energy. The data analysis reveals the presence of very low frequency standing wave patterns due to reflection either at the reef barrier inner boundary or at the lagoon shore. Another striking feature is the development of undular bore trains over the reef flat.

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