Statistics of wave crests from second order irregular wave 3D models
The statistics of the elevation and kinematics of waves in real seas are very rarely accessible from in-situ measurements which induced very high costs. An alternative to the actual waves observation is to derive from the spectral climatology of waves, completed with other environmental data like the wind and the current, the statistics of the individual waves. But this requires accurate models of irregular gravity waves which take into account all the main nonlinearities and interactions with the local wind, current and bathymetry. In a first step, methodologies have been based on second order irregular wave 3D models and have supplied the engineers with new better accurate models of statistics of wave crests. These models do not include yet the complex interactions with wind and current but participate to the improvement of the tools for the design of offshore structures.
Prevosto Marc (2000). Statistics of wave crests from second order irregular wave 3D models. Actes de colloque Ifremer, Brest, 29-30 November 2000, n°32, pp.59-72. https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00116/22715/