Hair Growth Activity of Three Plants of the Polynesian Cosmetopoeia and Their Regulatory Effect on Dermal Papilla Cells

Type Article
Date 2020-10
Language English
Author(s) Hughes Kristelle1, Ho Raimana1, Greff Stéphane2, Filaire Edith3, 4, Ranouille Edwige3, Chazaud Claire5, Herbette Gaëtan6, Butaud Jean-François7, Berthon Jean-Yves3, Raharivelomanana Phila1
Affiliation(s) 1 : IFREMER, ILM, IRD, EIO UMR 241, Université Polynésie Française, BP 6570, F-98702 Faaa, Tahiti, French Polynesia
2 : Institut Méditerranéen de Biodiversité et d’Ecologie Marine et Continentale (IMBE), UMR 7263 CNRS, IRD, Aix Marseille Université, Avignon Université, Station Marine d’Endoume, rue de la Batterie des Lions, 13007 Marseille, France
3 : Greentech SA, Biopôle Clermont-Limagne, 63360 Saint-Beauzire, France
4 : UMR 1019 INRA-UcA, UNH (Human Nutrition Unity), ECREIN Team, Université Clermont Auvergne, 63000 Clermont-Ferrand, France
5 : GReD Institute, Université Clermont Auvergne, CNRS, Inserm, Faculté de Médecine, CRBC, 63000 Clermont-Ferrand, France
6 : Aix Marseille Univ, CNRS, Centrale Marseille, FSCM, Spectropole, Service 511, Campus Saint-Jérome, 13397 Marseille CEDEX 20, France
7 : Consultant in Forestry and Polynesian Botany, BP 52832, 98716 Pirae, Tahiti, French Polynesia
Source Molecules (1420-3049) (MDPI AG), 2020-10 , Vol. 25 , N. 19 , P. 4360 (19p.)
DOI 10.3390/molecules25194360
WOS© Times Cited 3
Note This article belongs to the Special Issue From Ethnobotany to Ecopharmacognosy: Chemical Characterization and Bioactivity Evaluation of Medicinal and Aromatic Plants
Keyword(s) Polynesian plants, ethnobotany, cosmetopoeia, dermal papilla, hair growth, Wnt

Hair loss is becoming increasingly prevalent as dietary and living habits change. The search for natural products to limit hair loss has led to tapping into traditional cosmetic knowledge. We studied three plants of the Polynesian cosmetopoeia, Bidens pilosa, Calophyllum inophyllum and Fagraea berteroana, to determine their ability to promote hair growth. Their chemical content was characterized by liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Their proliferative activity on dermal papilla cells (DPCs) was assessed via MTT assay and molecular targets were evaluated by RT-qPCR analysis of seven factors involved in the modulation of the hair cycle, CCND1, LEF1, DKK1, WNT5A PPARD, TGFΒ1, PPARD and RSPO2. Our results show that our extracts significantly increased proliferation of dermal papilla cells. Furthermore, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed a diversity of molecules, flavonoids, iridoids and organic acids, some known for hair-inducing properties. Finally, specific extracts and fractions of all three plants either upregulated CCND1, LEF1 and PPARD involved in stimulating hair follicle proliferation and/or lowered the gene expression levels of hair growth inhibiting factors, DKK1 and TGFB1. Our findings suggest that extracts from B. pilosa, C. inophyllum and F. berteroana are interesting candidates to stimulate hair growth

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Hughes Kristelle, Ho Raimana, Greff Stéphane, Filaire Edith, Ranouille Edwige, Chazaud Claire, Herbette Gaëtan, Butaud Jean-François, Berthon Jean-Yves, Raharivelomanana Phila (2020). Hair Growth Activity of Three Plants of the Polynesian Cosmetopoeia and Their Regulatory Effect on Dermal Papilla Cells. Molecules, 25(19), 4360 (19p.). Publisher's official version : , Open Access version :