In Vitro Hair Dermal Papilla Cells Induction by Fagraea berteroana, a Tree of the Marquesan Cosmetopoeia (French Polynesia)

Type Article
Date 2021-03
Language English
Author(s) Hughes Kristelle1, Ho Raimana1, Chazaud Claire2, Hermitte Stéphanie3, Greff Stéphane4, Butaud Jean-FrançoisORCID5, Filaire Edith3, 6, Ranouille EdwigeORCID3, Berthon Jean-Yves3, Raharivelomanana PhilaORCID1
Affiliation(s) 1 : UMR EIO 241, IFREMER, ILM, IRD, Université de la Polynésie Française, BP 6570, 98702 Faaa, Tahiti, French Polynesia
2 : GReD Institute, Université Clermont Auvergne, CNRS, Inserm, Faculté de Médecine, CRBC, 63000 Clermont-Ferrand, France
3 : Greentech SA, Biopôle Clermont-Limagne, 63360 Saint-Beauzire, France
4 : Institut Méditerranéen de Biodiversité et d’Ecologie Marine et Continentale (IMBE), UMR 7263 CNRS, IRD, Aix Marseille Université, Avignon Université, Station Marine d’Endoume, rue de la Batterie des Lions, 13007 Marseille, France
5 : Consultant in Forestry and Polynesian Botany, BP 52832, 98716 Pirae, Tahiti, French Polynesia
6 : UMR 1019 INRA-UcA, UNH (Human Nutrition Unity), ECREIN Team, Université Clermont Auvergne, 63000 Clermont-Ferrand, France
Source Cosmetics (2079-9284) (MDPI AG), 2021-03 , Vol. 8 , N. 1 , P. 13 (14p.)
DOI 10.3390/cosmetics8010013
WOS© Times Cited 1
Keyword(s) Fagraea berteroana, hair growth, ethnocosmetology, Marquesas islands, Gentianaceae

Fagraea berteroana is a tree used in traditional medicine in various islands of the South Pacific. Here, we studied its hair growth-inducing properties as suggested by one of its Marquesan ethno-uses in haircare. The ethyl acetate extract of the fruits of F. berteroana (FEAE) and four resulting fractions (FEAE-F0, FEAE-F1, FEAE-F2, and FEAE-F3) were tested on hair follicle dermal papilla cells to determine their cell proliferative activity. Furthermore, RT-qPCR analysis enabled gene modulation analysis, while immunostaining of the β-catenin protein was used to follow protein regulation. We found that the plant extracts induced a controlled, dose-dependent cell proliferation. FEAE-F0 simultaneously down-regulated Bone Morphogenetic Protein 2 (BMP2) mRNA expression and upregulated Cyclin-D1 (CCND1) gene expression, which suggests an involvement in the regulation of the Wnt and Transforming Growth Factor beta (TGFβ) pathways that control the hair cycle. FEAE-F0 exhibited a 1.34-fold increase of nuclear β-catenin protein. This is indicative of an active hair growth state. Thus, we conclude that FEAE-F0 could be an innovative candidate in hair care, which opens interesting leads to promote the Marquesan cosmetopoeia.

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Table S1: MS2 data compilation of the compounds present in the Fagraea genus according to literature. 30 KB Open access
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Hughes Kristelle, Ho Raimana, Chazaud Claire, Hermitte Stéphanie, Greff Stéphane, Butaud Jean-François, Filaire Edith, Ranouille Edwige, Berthon Jean-Yves, Raharivelomanana Phila (2021). In Vitro Hair Dermal Papilla Cells Induction by Fagraea berteroana, a Tree of the Marquesan Cosmetopoeia (French Polynesia). Cosmetics, 8(1), 13 (14p.). Publisher's official version : , Open Access version :