DOI 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104660 The possibility of predicting the occurrence of wave breaking and the intensity of the breaking events using linear wave models is investigated. For this purpose, a new linear breaking onset criterion is proposed, based on the definition of a linear-equivalent wave, which has the same energy and impulse as the associated nonlinear wave. The strength of breaking is characterized by the parameter introduced by Derakhtiet al. (2018) and we derive an empirical law to estimate the breaking strength from the linear-equivalent wave model. The predictive ability of this criterion is assessed through comparisons with results of fully nonlinear potential flow simulations, for focused wave packets of various characteristics. For the considered configurations, the proposed approach is able to predict the onset and strength of breaking with good accuracy.
Breaking waves, Breaking probabilities, Fully nonlinear potential flow modeling
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Author's final draft IN PRESS | 26 | 2 Mo | ||
Fig. 13. Horizontal distance between BEM nodes in the free surface discretization, at the start of the simulations, as a function of the -location of the nodes. | - | 194 Ko | ||
Fig. 14. Evolution of the value of with the number of points on the free surface. The vertical dashed line corresponds to the base discretization of 601 points on the free surface. The red circle... | - | 143 Ko | ||
Fig. 15. Comparison of the total energy of the fluid and of the work of the paddle Wp computed as a function of time in the NWT, for the focused wave case A7. | - | 211 Ko | ||
Fig. 16. Comparison of the numerical and experimental free-surface profiles of wave B5, at 0.1 s before breaking occurs. For comparison, the free-surface profile measured 18 ms later is also depicted. | - | 198 Ko | ||
Publisher's official version | 14 | 2 Mo |
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